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(CNN)The boatman appears to be cycling.
As the small wooden craft approaches, I can see his legs rotating the oars in perfect rhythm.
I assume they must be attached to some kind of mechanized bicycle chain, but no, he’s simply rowing with his legs, looking as comfortable as if he were watching TV while pedaling an exercise bike.
A woman in a conical hat squats on the very bow of the boat.
As they pass our mighty ship, a replica of a colonial river steamer, they both stare up in curiosity.
From the top deck I offer a wave and they break into big smiles as the man lifts both arms aloft, proudly advertising the fact that he can row with no hands.
It’s one of many charming sights I witness as I cruise up Vietnam’s Red River, considered the cradle of Vietnamese civilization.
“In North Vietnam we have an expression,” says our guide Duoc — or Duke, as his badge reads.
“The Red River is our mother’s milk.”
Over the next 10 days he recites many a historical anecdote as we sail on the RV Angkor Pandaw from the magnificent Ha Long Bay up the Red River to Hanoi, and into the clear rustic waters of the Da River, a journey of more than 600 kilometers.
Our captain is Duc Doc, a local North Vietnamese who, perhaps unsurprisingly, cut his teeth on this network of waterways by piloting a cargo boat for three years.
“The lower part of the river is not so beautiful,” he says.
“There’s a lot of traffic, and it can get very misty in the winter months. Fortunately we have radar to detect any sandbars or obstacles.”
Nonetheless, on day five of the journey, we get stuck in a sandbar, such are the shifting sands of the current.
The captain reverses to get us out.
“So far, I’ve never needed to call in a tugboat,” he says with a smile.
Spectacular Ha Long Bay
Onboard the Pandaw
With a passenger capacity of 32, the ratio of guests to staff is almost one to one, which helps explain the meticulous attention to detail.
“Boat’s been wonderful; hospitality amazing,” says Nina Grace, a tour operator from Sydney.
“I just loved it!” adds Craig Kilgour, a retired minister from New Zealand, over his evening beer.
“I can’t wait to choose my next trip.”
Cabins sleep one or two and feature brass fittings and polished teakwood paneling.
Dining is a thrice-daily feast of East-meets-West flavors and healthy fare.
The day’s activities conclude with sunset cocktails on the top deck, followed by an unhurried three-course dinner accompanied by a buffet of salads, cold cuts, cheeses and breads.
For now at least, Pandaw is the only firm operating cruises on the Red River. The 10-day tour starts at US$2,600, excluding flights.
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The post Northern cruising: A journey up Vietnam’s Red River appeared first on MavWrek Marketing by Jason
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